What an Amazing World!

In a cold dawn at Cemoro Lawang, James and I are awaken by the loud alarm from my phone and smell the putrid odor of sulphur inside the room. The night wind must have blown away the puffs from Mount Bromo’s crater to the village a few hours earlier. One minute later a man knocks on the door – a cue for us to get ready for the early dawn hike to Mount Penanjakan in the cold but refreshing air more than 2,000 m above sea level. Mount Penanjakan has always been the main choice for viewing the fabled sunrise when the warm golden light would fall onto Tengger Caldera where the restless Mount Bromo and the long-extinct volcano – Mount Batok – reside on its bed.

We walk to the front yard of our hotel and find a handful of Jeeps waiting for the guests. We spot ours – a green…

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